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About bdz

  • Rank
    Silver Member
  • Birthday 05/21/1984

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General Info

  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    1988 CA18DE S13 SILVIA
  1. Price : $999 Condition : Used 1988 Black Nissan Silvia Rolling shell $300 ONO. Needs alot of work. Has rust damage in front rhs wheel arch which can be fixed if you cut out the area and weld new metal from custom fab or from a half cut. Car has been gutted so needs a motor and interior. Perfect project track car. Can be registerd but doesnt have green mod plate only blue plate cause its a 1988 model. Needs to be out of sunny bank area before the end of January because the property where i kept this chasis is being sold and I have no where to put it. Buyer will have to organise transport. S14 AFM 22680 – 40,000kms old. Great condition $80 S13 TB with bonus TPS (67mm) $80 S14 inlet manifold Nissan gasket genuine – opened but new $25 S14 top feed fuel rail by BMI – New $60 Oil pressure gauge 60mm electronic by Greddy – No sensors $40 S13 PS Pump – No pully $40 R33 Blitz BOV & pipe – No trumpet $30 S13 LHS CNR indicator $30 S13 SR20 rubber turbo intake $40 S13 Dash garnish $30 2 x S13 Bumper indicators – Used $30 S13 Cat back with cannon – Will take better pic at request. Polishes up nice $60 S13 SR20 Front and Dump pipe not inc o2 sensor $30 S13 NA cams for Turbo SRs looking for a cheap midrange mod $100 7 x coils for SR20’s – 25each or 4 for 75bucks 2 and a quarter cat back – sounds very different inc chain hangers $50 2 x 6 bolt half shafts – no splits in boots $150 LHS J’s head lights with inner mount cut out. Will still work with help $80 S13 SR20 Top cooler pipe $40 16 x valve springs for SR20 Standard $40 Blitz DIN panel for 3 x 43mm diameter gauge $30 Tomei 2 way mechanical LSD in R180 housing. Took it to DIFFLAPPING on the north side of Brisbane and told me LSD is perfect but the crown wheel and pinion is scuffed so it will whine till that’s fixed. Want $500 which is what I paid for it and never got to play with it. Open to offers of course or hit me up if you have a R180 LSD in Brisbane. (No pics yet) S14 Bare Block in great condition. 80k on clock when pulled apart. Perfect for forged internals. Never been decked and still has the original graphite gasket residue. $300 (No pics yet) Type X steering column and steering wheel with SRS air bag intact. Steering wheel has extra dish over standard $150 (No pics yet) Unknow turbo. Needs a rebuild. Bigger than a T518Z or Disco. Has A/R .50 and M12 on compressor housing. Give me and offer and ill throw pics op soon. S14 Crank. Ok condition. Has surface rust but can be linished off. Apart from that it is true and still standard journal sized. Doesn’t have collar or sprocket $130
  2. I have 10 cam caps off a SR20DET Redtop. Some have an “I” stamped to it and others just have dots in different patterns and quantity. Im guessing the “I” stands for inlet... Did a search on here with no success. Can anybody help me? The right thing to-do in order to avoid this would have been to take off caps in order and note. But it’s too late for that. That’s what you get for taking you motor to an amateur. Anybody? Cheers
  3. Cheers for the quick replies guys. Not sure about the specs yet. Coming from the states. The product is a Top End Gasket Kit w/87.5mm Head Gasket PRO2008T from Cometic. Thanks again for the advice.
  4. Follow the bolts?.... as in what Nissan says to bolt them up too? --->Tighten all bolts to 34 to 44 N-m (3.5 to 4.5 kg-m, 25 to 33 ft-lb).
  5. When I took of my SR20DET Redtop head off I didn’t prop up the timing chain right away. It dropped a couple of times before I realized this could be a problem. Is there a chance the chain could fall of the crankshaft sprocket and relocate on the wrong tooth? Just don’t want to have to pull off the front cover, pullies, re-seal etc etc. Ta
  6. Hey people about to install my reconditioned head on my S13 SR20DET Redtop. I’m using a Cometic metal head gasket with brand new standard head bolts. This is what it says in the SR20 manual but it’s for the standard graphite gasket. Use this sequence and specs with the metal head gasket? Or other... Cylinder head bolts tightening procedure: a. Tighten all bolts to 39 N-m (4.0 kg-m, 29 ft-lb). b. Tighten all bolts to 78N-m (8.0 kg-m, 58 ft-lb). c. Loosen all bolts completely. d. Tighten all bolts to 34 to 44 N-m (3.5 to 4.5 kg-m, 25 to 33 ft-lb). Cheers
  7. IMHO I think it was my tired valve springs that did my rocker arm for me; valve springs like all other springs and wear out over time and that's the reason why I upgraded mine. My car is very young compared to most and it's still 8 years old whilst s13's are 20 years old! I specifically went with springs that weren't overly hard as well which is very very important. Also keep your max revs near stock, IE don't rev the hell out of it, and don't sit on the limiter all day. And some say rocker arm stoppers, some say not to. Up to you, but I do use rocker arm stoppers. Cheers for hitting me back mate. Ive ordered BC valve springs. Trying to find out if I can use my standard retainers.... running out of cash
  8. Hey mate I broke a Rocker 10 months ago. Looked just like yours and was reving it hard at the time. Bent a valve stem. How can I stop this from happening again? My head is off and about to be sent to the machine shop. Anything I should invest in to stop this from happening again? Cheers
  9. Hey guys looking at putting cams in my SR20DET head whilst it’s out. Don't know much about cams but with these specs do I have to modify or upgrade original parts? Eg. Valve springs, lifters, retainers, rockers machined? etc... These are the only ones available to me so please don’t recommend me other sets. I just want to know about these ones. These are the specs. If someone could explain these specs for me that would help... Not sure about any on that. Cheers Profile No: 1598c Lobe Lift: Ex .292 In .292 Duration Advance: 264 264 Duration @.050: 212 212 Valve Lift: .444 .444 Lobe Sep: 109 Rocker Ratio 1.52: Street and Strip, good mid to top end power
  10. Hey guys I recently purchased BC valve springs for around 115 AUD from a yank on eBay. Could I get away with the standard SR20 retainers? Can someone please give me some info? Is the standard retainer going to fail at high rpm? What’s the justification on spending big bucks on the retainers.... because it seems like the retainers are more expensive than the actual valve spring. Thanks
  11. yeah dude wtf.... isnt size issues the main reason you high mount a turbo? I also hear low mount comes on to boost quicker.... plus turbo is likely to get unwanted attention.
  12. I am fitting oversize forgies and new rods, I obviously need the new rods and slugs, new bearings, new seals and a few other new bits. But also need a +0.5mm bore and hone, and what else? Deck block? Polish crank? crack test crank and block? The block seems to be in good condition with no obvious damage. Full reciprocating balance? What is a reasonable estimate on the costs of getting the block ready for assembly? Any recommendations?