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Found 20 results

  1. Hi I’m a newbie memeber ive joined because I discovered a specially made to suit blow off valve for the Holden cruze Sriv petrol turbo I purchased one off eBay about two weeks ago and it arrived yesterday and I installed it and its amazing so I have written a post about it and where to find one in hopes some one else in Australia who owns a cruze and wants to get it making that turbo sneeze blow off sound because I’ve never seen anything like it for a cruze in Australia and I was very lucky to come across it on eBay anyway i hope my post helps some fellow turbo cruze owners in Australia
  2. hey gays im taking my 2002 s15 spec s gt in to get a dyno im changing the injectors to 555cc and getting a nistune ecu put in how much is safe boost to take it up to and how much kwts is safe its its got affront mount on it and aftermakert exhaust its auto done 200000ks
  3. Boost Gauge

    Hello, i was wondering where i should put the fitting to get boost on my gauge.. where i connected it now i just get vacuum but i want boost instead. Nissan 200sx s14 SR20DET Thank you for answers
  4. Boost controller,ball bearing Manual screw type, a copy of the the turbosmart ones. $20 can post, probably cost $6 Perth WA Dave 0404 324 623
  5. Probably unlikely but if anyone has some I'm keen Cheers
  6. 1Gauge is an All-In-1 solution to your vehicles instrument needs. 1Gauge is designed to bridge the monitoring gap between a ‘flash’ tune and an aftermarket ECU. 1Gauge consolidates your vehicles vitals and displays the important information on a single easy to read display. Unlike your conventional automotive gauge, 1Gauge also has the ability to log, recall peak values and alert. 1Gauge can be customised to your specifications, with support for most of your vehicles parameters. The Ultimate Package is configured with the following Gauges: -Oil Pressure (0-75PSI) -Oil Temperature (50-150*C) -Water Temperature (50-150*C) -Manifold Air Pressure (87PSI) -Battery Voltage Fore more information or to purchase please visit: http://1gauge.com.au/ A full document of 1Gauges feature and usage can be found here: http://1gauge.com.au/1GaugeDocumentation.pdf Local Pickup Available in South Australia. Please contact sales@1gauge.com.au for any questions you may have.
  7. S15 Parts

    25mm Fibreglass Front Guards. Unpainted Small crack in one, refer pic $175 URAS Style Rear Bar Painted Pearl White $150 Greddy Profec B Boost Controller $200 Caster Arms $100 Bee*R Limiter $175 Located Toowong
  8. Hi guys, I've got a Rexspeed Voltex style carbon fiber diffuser to suit E9 rear bar. Bought without brackets and had to get a shop to make up some. The brackets don't bolt up with the fins on the bottom, but on just the side of it. Also has a slight 'semi' circle cut to fit my exhaust on my evo but doesn't look odd or affect anything. Overall condition is 7.5-8/10, some scratches due to low drive ways usual stuff but not noticeable once on car. Chasing $450 firm pick up ONLY in South East suburbs Victoria. PM me for pictures for the item itself or on 0403 518 974 Cheers
  9. hey guys i am having some problems with my 200sx s15, it is nearly all stock apart from exhaust, FMIC, and alloy radiator. it is coming onto boost extremely late around 4300-4500. you can hear it winding up before hand but honestly don't feel any type of boost till about the 4500 mark as i said. i have a few mates with s15's and s14's and when their cars were stockas they believe it was definitely coming onto boost with no lag what so ever and after taking my car for a drive they reckon something is definitely up. when installing the new radiator last night we tightened all the FMIC piping as well as blocking off 2 small broken nipple holes in the fmic piping as my car would get little shudders and nearly stall when dropping revs which we put down to boost/air leek, this did completely stop the shuddering problem but has done nothing to they laggy feeling of boost coming on. We also tried changing VCT solenoid because their wasn't a great deal of difference in the feel of the car after we disconnected the wires to the vct solenoid but after replacing the selonoid and hooking it all back up it was still the same. my VCT cam gear is a bit noisy and will be replacing quiet soon but have been told this shouldn't effect the performance of the car i was wondering before i go out and take my car to a mechanic and get them to find the problem via bloody hit and miss and lots of my cash, if anyone has any suggestions i should try out or if people have had similar problems?? thanks for any input people can give me as i don't have the cash for a mechanic to replace 10 things to finally work it what the problem was
  10. Was wondering if anyone had seen any results or information on what sort of boost or power the GReddy Spec LS Intercooler good for? I know that the outside air temp is going to have the largest effect on how well an intercooler performs. I know that bar and plate coolers do a better job of cooling the air than tube and fin, whilst tube and fin flows better. I was wondering what sort of boost people were running on this type of intercooler. Years ago I had a hybrid copy cooler on my 180sx and it had no issues pushing 1.7 bar of boost through from a T67 with a bit of tolul in the tank for insurance
  11. Hi guys, I'm a first time poster here but I have been lurking these forums for a while. I have found a lot of the topics on the tech forum very helpful and informative. Though I have something for some of the gurus to help me out on. I have recently installed a Turbosmart boost gauge on my ADM S15. The install went well and it seems to be functioning and lighting up correctly. I immediately took it for a drive to have a look at my boost readings. I red lined through first gear, second gear and a bit of third and measured a reading of 15 psi. Now this seems a bit high as these are my only mods. - K&N panel filter - GFB Respons blow off valve (set to plumb back) - Restriction removed from stock boost controller I understand that replacing the restriction hose on the stock boost controller will gain me a few psi but I wouldn't think it would be as high as 15 psi. I'm a bit worried that something is forcing my turbo to boost this high and that some internal damage could occur in my engine or turbo. I would put the restriction hose back on to measure my readings again but I don't have it as I bought the car with the restriction removed. Could there be something wrong with the boost gauge? Or maybe the way I installed it? The vacuum hose connecting to the boost gauge are nice and tight as well as the end connecting to the T piece that connects to the fuel pressure regulator. Anyone have any thought?
  12. looking for a new head gasket as the sil is making 17psi and the old one is leaking, what company and size would you guys recommend? I'm looking for it to be as reliable as I can get it. I was thinking along the lines of cometic 0.51
  13. Ok so my s15 Spec R GT (Aus) is finally road worthy and serviced ect so I want to start setting up some supporting equipment for when I install a EBC and up the boost a tiny bit, and fit some form of tunning hand controller/nistune/some other ecu used for tuning (suggestions on this would be helpful too but it’s off topic stuff). I already have a turbo back exhaust I have done plenty of research on how to install boost gauges and I have the knowledge and knowhow for how to do it but unfortunately for me I’m a perfectionist and I must do it right the first time. I have read others guides on how to install a boost gauge and they mention they used one of many vacuum lines, and all sorts of guides say to use different vacuum lines for different pros and cons. Firstly I want to do this properly and safe with little risk to the rest of the car (T piece failing on fuel regulator line cause leaks and fuelling issues being an example) Which line SHOULD I use? Is there just one possible line that can be used for max engine safety and accurate boost readings? Of the JDM models that had a boost gauge from factory, where did they plumb their lines too? Ideally I would want to mimic what came out of the factory. Any help would be great, cheers.
  14. I installed a turbosmart eboost street 2 in my 180 the other day sr20det. The boost will not go over 6.5psi. I have checked for boost leaks and cannot find any, I removed intercooler piping and re installed with extra clamps but still no change. If i swap the vacuum lines around in the solenoid (swapped the vent to atmosphere line with the intake) the boost will not control and will spike as far as it wants. I swapped the lines again so the line that went to the hot pipe went to the turbo and vice versa. When I change the lines back to normal still no change. before I had a manual bost controller and there was no dramas increasing the boost. The wiring didn't depend on polarity so it cant be that. The revs are working. I have changed the gate pressure, sensitivity and SP in a number of ways and still no increase. Any ideas?
  15. Hello, as you can see from the title I have a CA18DET that has power loss. I was browsing this forum but I couldn't find anything similar to my problem. Anyway, I'm gonna try to explain it as clearly as I can. Also, I want to say that I'm not a mechanic, my knowledge with cars is really little. And sorry for my bad english, it isn't my first language. So, everything started when I was cleaning my engine (oil) from slug. I removed valve caps, CAS, camshafts, timing belt, hydraulic compensators (I've rebuild them). After putting everything together I also changed oil, oil filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, cleaned my injectors. When we started the car it worked fine, but after putting gas pedal to the floor the car would start to "cough"/shoot from exhaust and wouldn't go past 3k RPMs. Anyway, I didn't knew what to do so I gave it to a guy that works with 200sx for many years. He re-put my timing belt and set the timing. It helped for a few days. But after a few days I got a straight 3" exhaust with turbo elbow. The guys that installed it said that it's from SR20DET and that turbo elbow is now screwed to my turbo with 4 out of 5 screws. Anyway when I got my exhaust installed the problem started again. Car started caughing and wouldn't go past 3k RPMs when floored. I took my car to the same guy and he found out that my fuel pump is dead. He changed it to other one (used) and it was ok for a while. So now I have a different problem. When I am pushing gas soft the car runs fine, but if I floor it, I hear the turbo spool (~3k RPM), I can feel the acceleration till about 4k RPMs, then I feel a slight pause (it stops for like 1sec @ 4k RPMs) and then it goes further but reaaaaally slowly. And I feel like the boost turns on-off-on-off. It's really strange and hard to explain. Sometimes I feel like I don't have any boost. What should I check? Should I look at turbo's actuator? As I was googling I've read that it can be: 1) Boost leak 2) Spark plugs 3) Vacuum leak 4) IC piping leak 5) Exhaust leak 6) O2/lambda sensor 7) Coilpacks I tried to disconnect my O2 sensor, but nothing changed. I took NGK spark plugs (I will be able to tell the exact model tomorrow) from my friends dead SR20DET motor, gonna try to put them in, also check the coilpacks. Maybe you guys have any schemes or pictures that could show me where to look for boost/vaccum/ic piping leaks? I would be really grateful for that. Oh and by the way, my S13 is fully stock except for exhaust and stage 1 ECU chip. Thanks in advance, Kash.
  16. Hi people, I was wondering if anyone has any experience with these particular bleed vales? Look at this on eBay: ADJUSTABLE BLUE BOOST CONTROLLER S13 S14 S15 R32 R33 VL http://www.ebay.com....#ht_4284wt_1039 They are quite cheap on eBay. Or should I stick to gfb or turbosmart Steve ***NOTE TO OP, I HAVE REMOVED YOUR VIRUS URL AND REPLACED IT WITH THE EBAY LINK, DOUBLE CHECK THE URL BEFORE LINKING ON THE FORUM *** - ONE_VIA_S13
  17. I have been trying to figure out a way to connect my 1/8 boost gauge line to the 4mm vacuum line. I have come across all sorts of fittings people have put together to accomplish this. I came across this fitting at work that SMC make called the Plug-in Reducer (part number:KQ2R23-04-X2). The 1/8 hard line coming out of the boost gauge plugs into the fitting and the vacuum line slips over the nozel. This setup leaks out of the vacuum line and the vacuum line also pops off after 30PSI. There are two ways around this: 1) super glue the nozel before putting the vacuum line on and adding a hose clamp for added protection (suggest not to use zip tie as this was the first thing I tried to stop the leaking air and it only made it worse as it pinches the vacuum line). I tested this with only the super glue at work and ran up to 120PSI with no failure of the connection. I couldn't push it above this because the fitting from the vacuum line to the pump kept popping off above this pressure. 2) Buy the Plug-in Reducer (part number:KQ2R04-06-X2) and plug the 4mm nozzle into the 4mm plug in socket. This gives you a 6mm nozzle which will seal properly. Suggest to use a hose clamp on this one aswell. The 6mm nozel is the same diameter as the fitting I was using to connect the vacuum line to the pump. So if you are going to run 120PSI I wouldn't suggest doing this . Sorry about the long write up but I wanted to cover everything.
  18. If you wake up dreaming of a steamy reach-around by a man in uniform, then you should consider mounting your gauges on the dashboard. Police love this. For everyone else, it's much better to just hide that sh*t so you can crab-walk over speed bumps in peace. 14psi of vacuum ftw. Difficulty = 7 Where 0 is training your dog to dump on command, and 10 is stopping them from eating it. Time Required = ~5 hours A lot of people fail where delicate work and electronics is involved, so take your time and set aside a day. Disclaimer Never go full-retard. You break it, you pay for it, etc. Tools Required Razor knife Steel ruler Soldering iron Side cutters Wire strippers Screw driver Drill + various drill bits Digital LED gauge. Got mine from Supercheap and blue was the only colour available. I am in fact straight. Various coloured wire Various small bolts and nuts Transparent blue/grey tinted plastic. I used the lid of a disposable food container. Experiment with different filters. Quality tape with a hard edge. I used 3M Scotch Brand 850 Superglue Small zip ties Thin heatshrink tubing Flux-cored solder Usage Checking boost levels without Police attention Blinding you at night Just generally looking like a sik c*nt Process Step 1. Test the boost gauge and make sure it works. My quality product needed replacement. Abuse staff as required. Step 2. Disassemble the boost gauge. If you can't figure it out, take a flat-head screwdriver and start bending things. Step 3. Mark the orientation of the LED display block, then desolder it. Step 4. Solder different coloured wires to the pins of the LED block, covering each with heat-shrink tubing. Step 5. Remove the gauge cluster from your car (unbolt and drop the steering column). Remove the cover and silver trim by pushing the tabs on the back. Step 6. Unscrew the 4 bolts retaining the speedometer, and remove it. No need to remove the needle, just spin it out of the way. Step 7. Remove the plastic dividers in the unused pocket (bottom-left of the cluster), using a razor knife and soldering iron. Wear eye protection. Step 8. Cut some notches in the plastic to slot the LED bar in place. Step 9. Route the wires through the holes in the back, position the LED bar and ziptie the wires in place. Step 10. Position the LED bar slightly below flush with the surrounding lip, and superglue in position. Step 11. Bolt the speedometer in place and mark a hole for the LED bar, using tape. Remove the speedo and carefully cut the hole using a NEW razor blade and ruler. Step 12. Cut some tinted plastic to shape, and superglue to the underside of the speedo gauge, such that the hole is covered. I will redo mine with more tint. Step 13. Install the speedo, silver trim and cluster cover. Step 14. Flip the cluster over. Remove the plastic PCB cover, drill holes and bolt the gauge PCB in place. Cover the bolt heads with cardboard and plastic tape. Step 15. Test fit the cluster in the car, to ensure the PCB mounted to the back clears everything. Step 16. Cut the LED wires to length, and solder in the correct positions using the details recorded in Step 3. Step 17. Connect the 12v line to a switch, then to power. Connect the earth and sensor, then test. My sensor was disconnected in the photos, and it really is f*cking bright.
  19. GT28RS AFR?

    I was reading on a other post that a gt28rs will damage your engine with out a tune cause of air fuel ratios My setup on my redtop 180 will be fmic,bov, full exhaust,manifold, gt28rs, apexi pod,profec a and HKS AFR my car has stock injectors and fuel pump Question is can I boost it to it's maximum potential safely because I have a HKS AFR?
  20. hey guys, i think the time has come for me to make a thread on my drift car.. Some people may already have seen this car or heard of it, some love the idea and some just completely hate it... I get asked why i did it every time some1 new sees the car... my answer is why not? I got the idea from my brother Tom (honda fanatic) and my tunner (Craig: PSR tunning)... My brother had always driven hondas and i must admit now i used to give him heaps, NA gay shit rah rah rah they usual shit honda fans cop.. Till he bought his DC2 type R. it handled amazing and for a little 1.8L NA it went quite good. I thought that a stock CA18 turbo would get the doors blown off by this honda.. So i started to get interested in the Honda game.. My brother had done minor NA mods and made a happy 135kw @ the tires... Un till he hit the power bug n decided to turbo charge it... At first i couldnt cum to terms with a high compression engine lasting being turbo charged and what computer to use to run vtec etc etc etc... it was all a big puzzle.. But my brother being the person he is.. Research and chatting to the scarse honda tunners and builders here in VIC, he came to his own conclusion that it didnt need a rebuilt engine, or a decomp plate or any thing to do with opening the engine up... I was down for it to be a hand grenade... 6months later it was boosted, made 240kw at the wheels on 7.5psi, on BP Ultimate. With a bone stock engine... Drove it for 1.5years till some scum bag decided to take unauthorized possession of my brothers beast and not returning it. It was stolen... Never the less I drove it a few times as you do your brothers car, and was gob smacked with the way the power came on, the absolutely no lag, the power band range(3500-8500) and the all day everyday thrashing that it copped... That was the decider for me, I had to have VTEC and boost (at the same time) in a rear wheel drive format and to be my new drift machine. After having SR20's in the past, the honda engine is in a whole new class... I went out and found the cheapest cleanest s13 silvia I could find. It was ca na automatic. Such a steal with 11months rego.. Car cost me under 2500bux.. We (me and my brother) had chatted about the SR20VE head on a basic built bottom end. But I wanted high compression, I wanted a shit load of timing, I wanted as much RPM as possible, I wanted no lag but I wanted a massive turbo and external gate and I wanted it all on pump fuel... I wanted something that is some what not possible in many engines.. We sat down with my tuner (Craig) and we discussed the potential of the SR20VE, and we came to the conclusion it wasn't for me. High comp wasn't an option, lots of timing wasn't on the cards, and no lag was impossible... and then..... S2000 was mentioned by a little bird sitting on the window sill.. We put it all together and that was the go, s2000 engine gearbox ecu and loom, and boost it... Awesome, seamed like work, but cant be too hard, till I priced some second hand s2000 engines, gboxes with ecu n looms... there was no way I was paying that much for something that may or may not work.. Couldn't justify the loss... Back to the drawing board we went. In the mean time I sat and dwelled on what I was going to do for an engine, RB, rotary 1zj, they all got thrown around, but nothing was what I really wanted. We nearly gave up till Craig said lets try a K20 (DC5 integra) or K24 (Euro Accord). But these engines are front wheel drive engines??? We went to the drawing board and chased up people to make adaptor plates and engine mounts n gearbox mounts. Also the wiring was gonna be an issue… Once I found some close friends to do them bits for me I went on a rage to find a K24 or a K20 and an s2000 gearbox… It didn't take long I hade everything I needed sitting in my garage. The build was extremely slow after that. I had to wait for my mates dad to have room at his house for me to take him the engine n gearbox to make the adaptor plate and custom drill the flywheel to suit the s2000 clutch and the spigot and etc etc… Once that was done, after he had called me telling me it was impossible, and it wouldn't marry up at all and it was one of them things that just wasn't gonna work, I then took him the bear shell and it was mounting time. I get a phone call a few days later with the bad news, (which I knew this wouldn't of went smoothly at all) the engine was to poke from the bonnet and the gearbox tunnel was to be chopped out… So I took the car back home stripped the interior and took an angle grinder into my hands and went crazy.. cutting the top of the gearbox tunnel off and about 50mm up the firewall. Car went back and engine was mounted… At last the car was back in my garage and the wiring was started on… I ripped out the heater and aircon and it wasn't going back in. I wanted the car to be rewired from headlights to tail lights, I wanted the fues box and relays on a plate were the aircon and heater box usually are… I was being a pain aswell. I wanted my mirrors to work, my lights, wipers, interior lights I wanted every stock electrical thing in the car to be working. I was goin to be driving this car on the street. And belive me I do on the odd occasion, wish I could more often. After many long nights months went past and the wiring was only getting started. It was becoming a nightmare, we couldn't get things to work together, the Nissan and the Honda just didn't want to mix. Frustrating times nearly made me ditch the project and sell it all… My brother made me keep goin and said "lets finish this thing, if you dnt like it once its done will then sell it". Like f**k I was gonna sell it once it was done… Wiring got done and engine was now turning over with the keys… wooohooo… Time to sort out exhaust manifold, plenum, cooler, radiator, fuel setup etc.. The car went to see Mick at Head Tech were he made the exhaust manifold to house my GT3076R and my 60mm Tial gate. And a full 3inch exhaust, which was a pain in the ass because the hot side now was on the opposite side to a normal Nissan engine… The plenum having an efficient runner setup was cut and shut to now face forwards not backwards. Thanks Mick, works of art… Car came back home for me to finish off the rest. Turbo was secured with water and oil lines in place and heat sleved, gate was V-banded into its place, exhaust bolted up. Plenum got bolted up, the custom cooler set up was put together by my brother and myself as well as the radiator and custom piping. Fuel rail went in and houses RC 1000cc injectors a Magnafuel fuel reg was in place, custom surge tank with Walbro in-tank pump and Bosch external pump. Then I worked on the suspension. I threw in some Tien Super Drift coils, tune agent castor, camber and roll control centres. Godspeed rear toe arms. Hard race tie rods went in, brand new poly bushers all round, sub-frame risers. R200 4.36-welded diff went in. The breaks were sourced out of an s15 as well as the 5stud conversion, with DBA discs and Bendix pads. A 9point Cusco cage was thrown in for good measures, Supra Recaro seats and Alpine head deck, and the rest of the stock interior went back in to give it that cosy feeling. The car was ready to be cranked and started, we got a Hondata ECU with a base turbo map with the injectors scaled in, to be able to start and drive it easy to run the fresh clutch in, on the street. Yes the car became my daily drive for about 2weeks to run the clutch in. Drove it to work and back every day… The day came and it was ready for a tune… nerves were running high as I didn't really know what kinda boost we were looking at running and I was hoping I was going to make at least what my brother was making… The car went on the dyno at Rev Zone and started getting its tune with part throttle and full load with a 50degree cam angle adjustment this all take precision and time. About an hour later a power run came on and I see the revs climbing to about 6000rpm, with all the noise and commotion the car made an easy 140kw, the catch was VTEC hadn't been engaged as yet… Another about hour of tunning and with VTEC engaging at about 3300rpm and reving it to 6000rpm the car churned out 230-240kw on 12.5psi… I was bouncing off walls, we had at least another 2500rpm to rev this thing and it was making the power I wanted… A bit more tunning happened and a bit more revving and the car started to make ridiculous numbers, both torque and KW… car was revved to 6800 and made 270kw and 450nm. Craig had an idea to try and take some torque out of the engine. That kind of torque on stock conrods was sure to throw a rod. Craig's words were "do you want to drive it home tonight or if you get a bit closer you can catch the rods when they fly out of the block." Before we went for drastic measures we tried one last power run, now to 7000rpm but he would flood the engine with fuel, make it soo rich that it wouldn't make any more power but loose power. The A/F ratio plummeted to nearly 9:0 at about 6500 and the car made another 10KW… I was devastated, we had no choice but to reduce the boost =( The boost went from 12.5psi to 8psi. which for me, I felt we were goin backwards… I love boost, but it wasn't on my side that day… Car went on to make an easy, laid back 253Kw and 340nm at 8psi at 8500rpm… I couldn't complain with that, the car was amazing, after being able to take it for a proper bash up and down the street, the car feel insane. I couldn't believe how well it went, how no lag it had. It was a dream… The car had now gone onto doing a 12.3sec at 118mph in street/drift trim. It has been to about 6/7 drift days, gets driven to car meets and shows and on weekends when time permits. The engine has never failed me, it has never broken a single thing... I couldn't of asked for any thing more. For the future I may try to squeeze 10psi out of her to up the torque and Kw and really push this engine to the limit… Parts list: Engine: K20A2 (02 DC5 Type R) Engine Mods: Internally completely stock Induction: Garrett Gt3076r, Tial 60mm eternal gate. Custom made stainless steam pipe exhaust manifold, HPC coated. Drift Pod filter, custom intercooler and copper piping. Custom made intake manifold, stock throttle body. Fuel System: Walbro 255l/h in-tank pump, custom surge 2L surge tank. Bosch 921 external fuel pump, Ryco inline fuel filter. MagnaFuel fuel pressure regulator, Hybrid Racing fuel rail. RC 1000cc injectors. ProFlow fittings throughout. ECU & Ignition: Hondata K-Pro, battery in boot. Custom wiring through out. Exhaust: Custom made 3inch turbo back. Single mid muffler. Twin drift flutes. DRIVETRAIN Gearbox: Stock s2000 AP1 Clutch: Exedy cushion button (sprung centre). Differential: CA18 turbo R200 locked. 4.36 gears. Breaks: Front- s15 stock callipers, disks and pads. Rear- s15 stock callipers, DBA disks, Bendix Ultimate pads. Suspension: Tien Super Drift coilovers all round. Tune Agent front caster rods and roll control centres. Super Pro front inner control arm bushers. Tune Agent rear camber arms. Godspeed Project rear kinked toe arms. Super Pro front and rear sway-bar links and D-bushers. Stock sway-bars. WHEELS/TYRES: Front- SSR formula mesh 16x9.5+8 with 215/45 Kumo KU36 Rear- Old skl Weds 17x9+13 with 215/45 Nankang NS-2 INTERIOR: Recaro, Supra driver and passenger seats. Safety 21 half cage (front half not installed yet). Dash Matt, S2000 gauge cluster. Personal steering wheel, DC5 type r gear knob. Custom dash tray/table. Silvia floor matts EXTERIOR: SLR 5000 bonnet scoop. B-Wave boot wing. Nismo, aero side skirts. Rolled front and rear guards. Silvia mud flaps. Sponsor stickers. PERFORMANCE: 253kw @ the wheels, on 8psi, @ 8500rpm. 340NM @ 4000rpm 12.3sec 1/4 mile (street tyres) Thanks for reading guys Toli